Useful Tips

How to hide a screw in wood

Pin
Send
Share
Send
Send


How to screw a screw into a very thin metal by hiding his hat?

On the countertop behind a sink on plastic, a "hump" formed from moisture. We decided to level the surface by screwing a thin metal plate to the countertop. The question arose of how to hide the heads of screws or self-tapping screws (how to drown them in such a thin metal). Or maybe there are special screws or screws for such purposes?

To hide the head (head) of the self-tapping screw in the metal, it is necessary that the metal is thicker than the head of the self-tapping screw, otherwise it simply will not work to make poty.

For example, foil, it is also a very thin metal sheet, up to 0.2 mm thick.

Such screws with such a thin hat simply do not exist.

To drown the head of the self-tapping screw in the metal, countersink holes (countersink).

Need a countersink, or reduce a larger diameter.

This is how the same sweat will look

At the beginning, make markings on the metal, then with the help of a core we make a small depression in the material for the drill to enter.

We drill a hole with a drill of a smaller diameter (from the diameter of the self-tapping screw).

Next, make a countersink, or a drill of a larger diameter.

Screw the screw into the metal.

That's it, but if you have very thin metal (see above about foil) then you can’t hide the screw head in it, the thickness of the metal is not enough.

In this case, you should not hide the head of the screw in a sweat, but buy these

We twist the screw and snap the decorative cap.

Or option 2, do not use hardware at all (screws, screws), the metal can be glued, and almost to any surface.

The thickness of the metal is the main and main point, the "thin metal" is too uncertain concept.

If the metal is thicker than the head of the self-tapping screw, then make a pot and this is enough, if the metal is thinner than mm, then nothing.

I understand that as a screed you decided to use a galvanized self-tapping screw with a countersunk head, such as this:

I think that nothing good will come of it, because the swollen surface indicates that the base of the countertop has become unusable.

The self-tapping screw attracts the plate, aluminum corner and other details by the fact that it bites into the array and thereby creates the force of the "clamp".

In your case, this is possible, but there is a solution.

Try using galvanized flush head screws, such as:

If you take an aluminum corner and cut-fit to size.

It will be possible, having pressed a clamp, to tilt the drilling site.

Then drill a hole and hit it with a hammer on a cone core). Get a tapered recess in order to drown the screw head in it.

Next, insert the screw hole. On the reverse side washer, grover and nut.

In order not to be visible, spread epoxy glue and pour aluminum crumb into it (you can grate it with a file, grip any aluminum in a vice or buy it in a store of household goods or spare parts).

Grease the screwed head drowned in the core funnel, glue it with glue, after drying - sand it with sandpaper.

Maybe I did not quite understand the task correctly, but the self-tapping screw, in your case, will not hold the screed force.

If moisture got into the countertop, then the service life of such a countertop, alas, has expired. Firstly, it is very difficult to get rid of moisture in a material of such a thickness, secondly, if there is moisture, then a fungus will follow, and this infection is capable of many undesirable surprises, up to the complete destruction of the countertop, well, or partial, which is not so and important.

But if you still decide to rectify the situation, then try the method by which I removed the swelling on the wall from similar material. You need to take two metal plates and a clamp, preferably two or three. Depending on the size of the swelling. We put the plates one on top, the other on the bottom in the problem place. Then tighten with clamps to eliminate swelling. We dry this place with a construction hairdryer and leave it tightened for a while. After drying, you need to protect this place from further moisture. You can use varnish or paint.

Overlaying the plate will not do anything. Self-tapping screws simply will not hold in the swollen material. You can also try to pre-drill holes in the plate and tighten the area by passing a thin wire through the holes.

Alternatively, you can pull off the whole thing, process and hide behind the curb, not worrying about the protruding hats of screws.

Hide under the wood

The method is suitable for structures made of solid wood or MDF panels. The trick is that the head of the screw is hidden inside a wooden object. To do this, use a chisel to remove a strip of wood about 5 cm long, a piece should remain connected to the board.

A hole is drilled under the piece into which a self-tapping screw is inserted. After the groove with the hat, they are abundantly lubricated with PVA glue, a piece of wood is pressed tightly into place. This requires more effort, the design can be crushed with a heavy object or clamped in a vice. After drying, the approximate time is 1.5 hours, the groove is sanded with fine sandpaper.

other methods

If the surface with self-tapping screws is rough and requires further finishing, then fasteners can be hidden with putty. Hats of self-tapping screws must be “drowned” in the wood using the countersink method.

To begin with, a drill is selected, equal in diameter to the shaft of the self-tapping screw or screw. The shaft is the width excluding the thread. On the drill, the length of the self-tapping screw is marked with adhesive tape or thin rubber. Guide holes are drilled to a depth of limiter.

Next, a drill is selected that is equal in diameter to the head of the self-tapping screw. The height of the conical part of the fasteners is measured and marked by a stop on the working drill. It is at this depth that the hole needs to be expanded.

The hole with the recess is ready, now fasteners are screwed in with a drill or a screwdriver with a more suitable nozzle. Their hats will go a little deeper into the wooden surface.

After proceeding to the finish. To do this, use carpentry putty, which aligns the recesses for screws with the rest of the surface. After it dries, the furniture is painted or varnished.

Caps of self-tapping screws enter soft woods with a recess without a preliminary countersink. In this case, either a drill or a screwdriver is used.

How to screw a self-tapping screw so that its head is not visible

Immediately we want to clarify that a self-tapping screw is screwed much easier if a hole of a slightly smaller diameter is pre-drilled under it.

It is more convenient to screw in the screws using a screwdriver. We talked about how to choose a screwdriver in this article.

Having drilled a hole, you can take a countersink and make a small indentation at its entrance.

The screw-in screw cap will completely hide in the hole prepared for it.

A similar result is obtained if you use a drill with two drilling diameters.

The use of such a drill immediately allows you to make a hole for the sting of a self-tapping screw and a recess for its head.

A method more known to many masters is to make the preliminary hole a thin drill, and then thicker to prepare the hole for receiving the screw head. However, this technique can be slightly supplemented as follows:

  • if the thickness of the part allows it, make the hole for the hat quite deep,
  • screw the screw, hiding his hat in a deep hole,

  • insert a wooden pin greased with glue into the hole,

  • when the glue dries, cut off the tail of the pin and treat the surface of the part with sandpaper.

How to make a hole for a self-tapping screw cap in a thin part

If the self-tapping head needs to be hidden in a sufficiently thin part made, for example, of plywood, then when using the previously described methods there is a great risk of spoiling the part by drilling a hole for the hole through and through. To prevent this from happening, some kind of depth limiter is required.

Such a visual limiter can be, for example, a masking tape wound on a drill at a strictly defined height.

Another way to limit the depth of drilling is to put a wooden sleeve drilled through through the drill.

The excess length of the drill should be removed into the cam of the drill, leaving only that part of it that will provide the required drilling depth. During drilling, the sleeve simply will not allow the drill to go deeper than it should. Do you like such a limiter? Do you think it is convenient to use? Write about it, pliz, in the comments!

How to screw a self-tapping screw into parts located at an angle

Suppose we need to attach a leg to the tabletop. To do this, a hole is drilled in the leg with a rather thick drill about half its thickness.

Then drilling continues with a thin drill with a diameter approximately equal to the thickness of the self-tapping screw, obliquely so that the drill enters the second part.

The self-tapping screw is screwed into the channel prepared in this way, and its cap is placed in the hole prepared in the first stage with a thick drill.

We hope that the life hacks we have collected will help beginners to master the intricacies of screwing in self-tapping screws, and for experienced ones - to replenish that baggage of skills that they already possess.

A few tricks to hide the head of the screw. Read it!

Very interesting article. Not the first week you have been sitting on the site a lot of necessary and interesting life hacks. Even this article, it’s nothing complicated, because just at first a little big drill and then a thin one and everything turns out beautifully.

We are glad, Andrey, that the materials published with us are interesting for you. Thank you for your comment. We are very pleased to know that our efforts are not wasted, that the material we have collected is useful for readers of the site

Oh you. This hole is for winter fishing. What do you teach people. This is a flush. Name things correctly.

Thank you, Dmitry, for expanding our linguistic horizons.
Indeed, in different regions of immense Russia, a huge number of words are used to refer to the same subject. For example, a kitchen rag, which is used by housewives, some call a tack, which, in principle, is quite explainable and understandable. And in the very outback of Russia, in the village of Derevenki, Borisoglebsky district of the Yaroslavl region, such a rag is called the outlandish word "remushka".
As for the word “sweat”. Probably, in your area this old Russian word is used to mean what we called a hole. However, in accordance with the dictionary of the modern Russian language edited by Professor Ushakov, the word “sweat” is not used outside the expressions. Most often it is used as part of the expression "in the blind", which means "flush".
In our publications, we strive to use the vocabulary that is guaranteed to be understood throughout Russia, since we want to be useful to all Russians. That is why in our future articles you will never see the word “remushka”, which we wrote about above and which is known to us. And we will hardly use the word “poty” to denote the hole known to all Russians.
In any case, Dmitry, we are grateful to you for the comment and for the expansion of our vocabulary. We will be glad to continue to see you among visitors to our site

Potay, I also heard such a concept.

I heard too. Moreover, as a Slav, I understand the meaning of this word. For example, you can easily understand that in Belarusian (this is also a Slavic language) the word "draene" means. Hedgehog it is clear that this means "bad." However, I wholeheartedly hope that in Russia we are read not only by Slavs, but also by all representatives of our multinational country: Tatars, Lezgins, Buryats, Chukchi and people of other nationalities. They, in the understanding of the Russian language, come from the knowledge gained during its study, and not from what we got along with mother's milk.
Therefore, it seems to me, when writing our materials, it makes sense to select those words that are known to everyone who reads us in modern Russian and who does not have genetic prerequisites for understanding Old Slavonic words

Pin
Send
Share
Send
Send